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Climbing up Govinda Hela in Siyambalanduwa: Witness the view of a lifetime

26 Mar 2021

Last Friday (19) night we travelled to the Monaragala District, taking the nearly seven-to-eight-hour bus ride from Colombo Fort. Travelling through the Ampara-Siyambalanduwa highway, about 300 km from Colombo, we arrived at our destination, Govinda Hela in Siyambalanduwa, on Saturday (20) morning. Govinda Hela, also known as Govindu Hela or Westminster Abbey, is a mountain with archaeological value and a history dating back to the end of the Polonnaruwa period (1056-1232). The mountain was once very popular among local tourists (back when there were tourists on the island) as a great place for hiking and camping. The 2 km climb to the top begins at the Buvanekaba Pirivena, and incumbent Priest Ven. Dhammika Thera shared with us a brief history and the significance of Govinda Hela before we set off on our hike. The Thera shared that according to local chronicles, the throne of the Sinhalese monarch of the country after King Nissankamalla’s reign (1187-1196) was transitioned to the hands of a few rulers who were weak in reigning. As a result of that, the country’s political stability became poorer and resulted in the incursions carried out by several Tamil invaders from South India. Magha of Kalinga (India) who came with a large army from Malabar (Kerala) invaded Sri Lanka during this period and became the ruler of the country. According to chronicles, he tried to destroy the doctrine of the Buddha. While Magha was controlling the Rajarata area, some of the chieftains in Ruhunu and Maya country successfully prevented the invader and his hordes from entering into their territories. He stated that these chieftains built strongholds in various places in the country. Bhuwanekabahu, the Prince (adipada) of Rohana, had his stronghold at Govinda Hela and a military leader called Samkha had his at Minipe, while another military chief named Subha had his stronghold at Subhapabbata, known today as Yapahuwa. For anyone who visits the temple to begin their hike, those at the temple would give a brief set guidelines and a few words of advice sharing the potential dangers of the course, including the presence of several leopards and extremely poisonous snakes. You are asked to not deviate from the path under any circumstance and to remain silent around the many caves that are dotted along the way, as they house large wasp nests and disturbing them could be fatal. Dhammika Thera shared with us that the monks of the temple would often go up to the top or seek space within some of the caves where they have erected meditation spaces. He also asked that when one reaches the top not to pollute the water sources at the top, as the pockets of wells that are natural water sources the monks use to drink when they go up there to meditate. While 2 km doesn’t sound like much, especially for anyone who is relatively fit and used to trekking quite regularly, the upward climb to Govinda Hela cannot be categorised as terribly easy, particularly considering the fact that the likelihood of getting lost without a proper guide is high in the jungles surrounding Govinda Hela. You must be on high alert when making your way to the top – simply to stop and think every few meters to assess your path to make sure that you are not taking a road less travelled. The first half of the hike is relatively simple; there’s no real elevation. Only after crossing two bridges and travelling nearly half a kilometer does the trek tend to become difficult with a series of steep rocks and high slopes. There was once a time when the climbers had to navigate uneven rocks and a rope ladder had to be used to reach to the top. However, people travel the path often enough that there are even some constructed cemented steps at some parts and aluminium ladders installed over the rock faces. Considering the relatively short distance, hikers can really take their time with the climb. If you start early, you can truly explore the forest as well as the many caves spread out along the path. We were fortunate enough to visit numerous caves along the way – some more beautiful than the others, shaped into almost haunting cave formations due to years of exposure to the elements. Despite all the beauty along the way, the real highlight of the climb is, of course, the view from the top, expanding beyond the boundaries of the Gal Oya basin covering reservoirs, mountains, and streams. The view from the top of Govinda Hela is stunning. We were able to have lunch surrounded by the endless vistas of greenery and blue skies. After taking our sweet time to explore the ruins scattered on the top, the remains of a palace and a monastery, and the hulan kapolla emitting gushing winds through two rocks, we climbed down just before sundown.   PHOTOS ADVENTURE SEEKERS


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