- Avid traveller Viduni Basnayake reflects on the past, present, and future of this hidden gem
Viduni Basnayake, an avid traveller, recently embarked on a journey to the heart of Sri Lanka’s lush wilderness and discovered the hidden gem of Veravil. Situated in the Northern Province, Veravil is surrounded by some of the country’s most stunning forests and is just a stone’s throw away from the shimmering Indian Ocean. With its rich agricultural heritage and abundant marine resources, Veravil is a true representation of the natural beauty that Sri Lanka has to offer.
Giving us an insight into her travels, Basnayake explained she took a scenic drive from Jaffna to Mannar, passing over the Sangupiddy Bridge and Poonagari, and immersed herself in the breathtaking surroundings. But, she warned other travellers to be prepared for an off-road adventure, as the only way to reach this quaint village of over a hundred households is via a rugged red dirt road.
As the first rays of sunlight peaked over the horizon, she set out on a journey to the ancient village of Veravil. Known by the name of Eelam and formerly referred to as Ela Ur, this remote location has been blessed by the deity of Viraver, ensuring a safe and incident-free journey. She pointed out, “despite over 70 years passing since independence in 1948, the inhabitants of this region are yet to see any development.”
Along the way, she passed through the adjacent villages of Palavi, Ponnavali, Valaipaddu, and Kiranchi – all of which hold rich cultural and historical significance. Sharing an interesting fact about the area, she stated: “According to Tamil literature, this was once the home of the famous poet Ealatta Pudan Devanar. As we delved deeper into the heart of this untouched corner of Sri Lanka, we discovered the rich history and enduring spirit of this remarkable place.”
As we all know, Sri Lanka was once referred to as Elam. What we didn’t know was that during the time of the Jaffna Kingdom, the province in which Veravil is situated was referred to as “Velinadu,” meaning “outside country.” According to Basnayake’s observations, this suggests that Veravil was once considered a foreign nation. The residents of the Delft Puncudativ Islands in Jaffna have worked in Veravil at various times, indicating that the surrounding islands are easily accessible by boat. The annual liturgy on Kachchatheevu Island is attended by Catholic devotees from the surrounding areas.
Sharing more history on the town, she added that Ela Ur, as Velinadu was once known, had a self-sufficient economy, with rice, cow’s milk, and other agricultural products being traded with India and the Jaffna Peninsula. “The Portuguese, who came to Sri Lanka with the intention of conquest, made Ela Ur a focal point of their religious propaganda due to the high population density in the region. Armuga Navalar collaborated closely with the rural regions of Ponnawali Veravil, and the area is known to contain numerous archaeological artefacts waiting to be uncovered,” she said.
Unfortunately, the strong winds of the 1964 cyclone dealt a devastating blow to the major cement factory in Jaffna, the Kankesanthurai Cement Factory. The factory was forced to shut down due to the damage it sustained. Despite the foundation stone being laid for a new cement factory in Ponnavali, an area with a low population density, the construction was prevented due to environmental concerns. Basnayake added: “The impact of the cyclone can still be felt today, as the closure of the cement factory had far-reaching effects on the local economy.”
As the sunlight began to fade and with the twilight hours approaching, Basnayake cycled through deteriorating – the nearest being the forest road along the Mannar 32 Road, which passes through a dense forest or preserve. “The sole advantage of this road is that there are no potholes. However, there are water-filled streams everywhere. Both sides are surrounded by vegetation. There were numerous tropical trees with thick bark and green leaves, such as ‘palu’ and veera,” she recalled, noting that there was also an abundance of deer, elk, and wild boar. “I was even able to observe magnificent elephant footprints left alongside elephant dung. There is not a single person or living creature around. Along the stone and gravel road, there is nothing but an infinite forest on both sides. You must manoeuvre around the bushes while avoiding elephants and preserving the wheels of your bicycle.”
Basnayake recalled the first time she visited the village, four years ago, reminiscing that instead of the dissected palm trees that drew her attention when she first arrived, there are now young palm trees growing on the fertile soil where people used to bury the remains of their loved ones.
While the village, rich in history, is no longer soaked in blood, there is still very little progress made in terms of development. Basnayake stated: “I believe the village should also see the light of development because the citizens there are also a part of the country’s population. Teachers, civil servants, journalists, nurses, and other professionals will be born in these villages. More attention needs to be brought to this small town and the villagers’ needs must be met.” We can only hope that Velinadu will blossom from a shell of a village to the thriving community it has the potential to become.