For many in Colombo, Chutneys at Cinnamon Grand Colombo was one of those places that became an indelible part of the city’s dining memories. A familiar table, the aroma of South Indian spices, a freshly made dosai arriving crisp and warm, and those favourite dishes you already knew you were going to order before even looking at the menu.
The much-loved restaurant brought the distinctive flavours of South India to Cinnamon Grand Colombo, and although its doors eventually closed last year, the fondness for its food never quite disappeared. Last weekend, Cinnamon Grand Colombo offered a brief taste of that nostalgia with ‘Come Back for the Chutneys’, a small weekend pop-up at the Courtyard, bringing together a selection of the restaurant’s familiar favourites.
It was a limited revival rather than a full return, but for anyone who remembers Chutneys, there was something genuinely satisfying about sitting down to a plate of dosai and chutney again.
A little taste of the old Chutneys
We began with the Ulundu Vadai, three crisp lentil fritters served with coconut chutney. These were easily among the best bites of the meal: wonderfully crunchy on the outside, soft within and made even better with the creamy coconut chutney.
The Meen Puli Kozhambu, featuring seer fish cubes cooked in a tamarind gravy, was less successful. The fish was overcooked and lacked the depth of flavour expected from a dish built around such a vibrant tamarind gravy.
The standout for me was the Royvala Iguru, prawns simmered with garam masala, coriander, ginger, garlic and a thick coconut gravy. Rich, aromatic and beautifully spiced, the prawns had the kind of comforting, layered flavour that made it very easy to keep going back for another spoonful.
The Kori Garlic Thalna was another highlight. The chicken, cooked in a garlic masala with coriander and red chilli, was remarkably juicy, with the garlic and spice giving it plenty of character without overwhelming the meat.
The Kai Kari Kuruma, a mixed vegetable preparation in cashew gravy, was creamy and gently spiced, while the Yata Mamsam Biriyani, with mutton and rice cooked with aromatic herbs and spices, was pleasant but unfortunately on the dry side. It was perfectly serviceable, though not one of the evening’s standouts.
The dosai, of course
No Chutneys experience would feel complete without dosai, and the pop-up delivered a selection served with coconut chutney, tomato chutney and sambaru. The accompaniments were particularly good, adding freshness, tang and spice to each dosa.
We tried the Plain Dosai, Paper Dosai, Ghee Paper Dosai and Masala Dosai. The Paper Dosai was particularly enjoyable for its delicate crispness, while the Ghee Paper Dosai brought that extra richness that makes ghee and dosa such a natural pairing.
There is something wonderfully nostalgic about eating a freshly made dosa with your hands, tearing off a crisp piece and dragging it through chutney and sambaru. For former Chutneys regulars, this was probably the closest thing to stepping back into the old restaurant for an evening.
Sweet endings
Dessert brought two simple but satisfying finishes.
The Semiya Payasam, made with sago, vermicelli, sugar and cardamom-flavoured milk, was light, gently sweet and particularly refreshing after the more heavily spiced dishes.
The Gulab Jamun, deep-fried milk dumplings soaked in cardamom syrup, was delicious: soft, syrupy and fragrant, and a fittingly indulgent way to end the meal.
A small revival, but one worth remembering
‘Come Back for the Chutneys’ may have only been a small weekend pop-up, but its appeal lay less in reinvention and more in familiarity. It brought back dishes that many Colombo diners already knew and loved, even if only for a few evenings.
And if you missed the pop-up, there is good news: Chutneys relaunched last year at Cinnamon Citadel Kandy and is currently available at the Kandy property. So while this Colombo revival has come to an end, the Chutneys story itself is not quite over.