• Pho Vietnam brings the flavours of street food to Colombo

Nestled in the heart of bustling Colombo, Pho Vietnam stands as a beacon of culinary fusion, blending the vibrant flavours of Vietnam with the rich tapestry of Sri Lankan tastes. At the helm of this gastronomic heaven is chef Nguyen Hoang Phu, a visionary whose journey from Vietnam to Sri Lanka has enriched the local culinary scene in ways previously unimagined.

Stepping into Pho Vietnam is akin to embarking on a sensory voyage, where the aroma of exotic spices mingles with the warmth of hospitality. It’s here that we had the pleasure of sitting down with chef Nguyen Hoang Phu, the mastermind behind the restaurant’s innovative offerings, as well as Pho Vietnam Founder Norah Phung to delve into this culinary odyssey.

“I came here 12 years ago,” Norah Phung shared. “My parents set up the embassy here, and I liked it very much, so I decided to stay after they left.” It was this serendipitous decision that laid the foundation for her culinary venture in Sri Lanka.

With a humble demeanour, Norah recounted how Pho Vietnam came to fruition as her maiden culinary endeavour. “This is my first restaurant,” she confirmed, a hint of pride evident in her voice. It’s clear that Pho Vietnam is more than just a business venture for Norah; it’s a labour of love, a testament to her passion for Vietnamese cuisine.

As the founder of Pho Vietnam, she has always been passionate about sharing the vibrant flavours of Vietnamese cuisine with the world. “From the bustling streets of Hanoi to the serene shores of Colombo, my journey has been one of culinary discovery and innovation,” she told us.

Bustling streets and authentic flavours

One of the highlights of the restaurant’s evolution has been the creation of an outdoor dining area, complete with a banh mi cart manned by their in-house chefs. “Inspired by the lively street food scene of Vietnam, we wanted to offer our patrons an authentic experience that mirrored the bustling streets of Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City,” Norah shared.

As you step into the outdoor dining area, the air is alive with the sizzle of grills and the aroma of freshly baked bread. The banh mi cart, adorned with traditional Vietnamese décor, stands as a beacon of authenticity, beckoning diners to indulge in a taste of Vietnam.

Norah expressed: “For me, it’s not just about serving delicious food; it’s about creating an atmosphere that transports our patrons to the vibrant streets of Vietnam. With every bite of banh mi and every sip of Vietnamese coffee, we want our guests to feel like they’ve been whisked away to a busy marketplace in Saigon or a quaint alleyway in Hanoi.”

In creating the outdoor dining area and banh mi cart, they’ve sought to capture the essence of Vietnamese street food culture and bring it to the heart of Colombo.

Norah shared: “It brings me immense joy to see our patrons savouring the flavours of Vietnam in Colombo. Whether they’re seated indoors, savouring a steaming bowl of pho, or enjoying the al fresco experience of our banh mi cart, I want each diner to feel like they’ve embarked on a culinary adventure through the streets of Vietnam.”

As we delved into the topic of Sri Lankan palates, Nguyen’s insights offered a glimpse into his culinary philosophy. “Initially, people weren’t accustomed to the taste,” he admitted, “but over time, I’ve been striving to find Vietnamese dishes that resonate with the local palate.” It’s a delicate balancing act, marrying the bold flavours of Vietnam with the nuanced preferences of Sri Lankan diners.

Intricacies of Vietnamese baking

One such endeavour is the recent introduction of banh mi, a Vietnamese culinary gem that has found its place on Pho Vietnam’s menu. But bringing this iconic dish to life required more than just a recipe – it demanded skill, precision, and a touch of culinary magic.

As the visionary behind Pho Vietnam’s culinary offerings, Nguyen took it upon himself to ensure that every member of their kitchen team was adept at crafting the perfect banh mi bun. But mastering this seemingly simple yet deceptively complex creation was no small feat.

“The banh mi bun, with its light, airy texture and crispy crust, is a testament to the artistry of Vietnamese baking. Made with a combination of wheat and rice flour, the dough must be carefully kneaded and proofed to achieve the desired consistency. Then comes the delicate balance of baking – too long, and the bun loses its signature softness; too short, and it lacks the characteristic crunch,” the chef explained.

Nguyen knew that training his team to make the perfect banh mi bun would be a challenge. Language barriers posed an initial hurdle, but to his delight, he found that his staff was eager to learn and quick to pick up the techniques he imparted. Through patient instruction and hands-on guidance, Nguyen led his team through the intricacies of banh mi bun making.

“From the precise measurements of ingredients to the artful shaping of the dough, every step was meticulously taught and practised until perfection was achieved,” Norah added, explaining how she helped oversee the training and bridged the language barrier.

It was a journey marked by trial and error, laughter and camaraderie, as Nguyen and his team worked tirelessly to hone their craft. And as each batch of banh mi buns emerged from the oven, golden and fragrant, there was a sense of pride that transcended language and culture – a shared accomplishment born from a passion for Vietnamese cuisine.

“Have you tried to adapt your meals to local taste?” we inquired. Nguyen paused momentarily, a contemplative expression crossing his features. “No, sorry,” he responded, a hint of reluctance in his tone as he explained that he wanted to remain entirely authentic and offer exactly what one would find on the streets of Vietnam.

Banh mi indulgence

Despite his reluctance to compromise the authenticity of Vietnamese cuisine, Nguyen’s culinary prowess shines through in every dish served at Pho Vietnam. From the fragrant bowls of pho to the crispy delights of banh mi, each offering is a testament to his dedication to quality and authenticity.

During our visit to Pho Vietnam, we had the pleasure of indulging in their signature pork banh mi – an experience that left our taste buds tingling with delight. The banh mi was a symphony of flavours and textures, with each bite offering a tantalising glimpse into the rich culinary tapestry of Vietnam.

At the heart of the banh mi was the succulent sweet crispy pork, expertly marinated and grilled to perfection. Its tender juiciness contrasted beautifully with the crispness of the bun, creating a harmonious blend of savoury goodness.

But the magic didn’t stop there. Nestled within the layers of the banh mi was a generous smear of liver pate, adding a velvety richness that elevated the dish to new heights. The creamy texture of the pate mingled with the smoky sweetness of the pork, creating a symphony of flavours that danced on our palate with each bite.

To accompany this culinary masterpiece, we sampled both the Vietnamese iced coffee and narang iced tea – two quintessential beverages that perfectly complemented the bold flavours of the banh mi. The Vietnamese iced coffee, with its robust aroma and creamy texture, provided a delightful contrast to the sweetness of the pork, while the narang iced tea offered a refreshing burst of citrusy goodness that cleansed the palate between bites.

As we savoured each mouthful, we couldn’t help but marvel at the culinary prowess of Nguyen and his team. Their dedication to authenticity and innovation had transformed a simple street food staple into a culinary masterpiece – a testament to the magic that happens when passion meets skill in the kitchen.

PHOTOS Krishan Kariyawasam