The Sunday Morning Brunch visited Kankesanthurai Beach (KKS Beach) the day after the city of Jaffna concluded its Deepavali celebrations. We explored the city as the echoes of vibrant Deepavali celebrations lingered in the air, and although we missed the grandeur of Deepavali day on 12 November, we were determined to witness the aftermath of the joyous and colourful festivities that had unfolded just a day prior.
Venturing into temples and places of worship, we encountered remnants of the celebrations that had transpired the day before. The energy was different of course, since many had taken the week off and as Monday came around everyone was settling back into work rhythms and so we walked into the general calmness that follows a crescendo of festivity.
We had originally assumed that Deepavali was a significant, if not the biggest celebrated festival, and, engaging with locals, we learned a lot about how Deepavali was actually celebrated in Jaffna and its actual significance.
For many, Deepavali serves as a poignant reunion, an opportunity for Jaffna natives scattered around the island, especially those in Colombo or the eastern part of the country, to come together with their families back in Jaffna. The celebrations, therefore, carry a distinctive charm, bridging the gap between the diaspora and their homeland.
However, while Deepavali is undoubtedly celebrated in Jaffna, conversations with locals revealed a prevailing anticipation for the Nallur Festival, the city’s most celebrated festival. The festival holds a special place in the hearts of the people, particularly because it coincides with the Western summer holidays, beckoning the diaspora to return and partake in the grandeur. Many locals emphasised that for the most grandiose celebration of Hindu culture, Nallur Festival was the pinnacle.
Rajesh Vegan shared: “My family mostly does not really celebrate Deepavali in the way that Indians celebrate Deepavali. We go to the temple and light the oil lamps and exchange sweets and so on. But in our house we tend to say that Deepavali is a Tamil festival, meaning it is more cultural than it is religious and we just go through the motions like most Buddhists do for every Poya. The real celebrations happen during Nallur Festival, but because of the tourists and some of the hotels, Deepavali is celebrated since it is a holiday that falls in our calendar.”
Valampuri Hotel General Manager Gaston Bosco too shared that the festival times were typically busy times and that because it was somewhat a global festival, Deepavali continued to be celebrated.
“We definitely celebrate quite grandly. Thanks to the trains and our hotel being situated so close to the train station, it brings in a lot of foot traffic for the various events that we host and so we make it a point to involve all of our guests in our cultural celebrations. Therefore, Deepavali tends to be a special day. We get the guests some traditional clothes, prepare all of the traditional sweetmeats, and have everyone participate in lighting the oil lamp and other activities,” he said.
Festival’s enduring significance
Despite the Nallur Festival’s prominence, Deepavali remains a crucial festival, especially for specific groups such as hoteliers. In Jaffna, hoteliers make it a point to celebrate and share the uniqueness of Deepavali with in-house guests. It becomes an opportunity to showcase the colours, traditions, and warmth that define Deepavali in this cultural hub.
Jetwing Jaffna Assistant Manager Gangai Amaran shared that Deepavali was definitely a “persevering festival” and because it is so widely celebrated especially in the south of India, it remains a major influence in the north.
He added that there were many reasons Jaffna Tamils celebrate Deepavali: “Deepavali has numerous origin stories and while it is often referred to as the ‘Festival of Light’ and is of great significance, in Jaffna these festivals such as Navratri, Deepavali, Shivaratri, and Thai Pongal are like an everyday part of life – it is a festival of importance. The pinnacle of celebrations have somehow coincided with the Nallur Festival but Deepavali is still very important.”
He went on to share the significance of Deepavali as the ‘Festival of Light,’ making special note of how symbolising the triumph of light over darkness resonated strongly in Jaffna. He shared that the preparations for the festival commenced weeks in advance, marked by the traditional cleansing of homes, known as ‘Suthu Kandu’. Streets and homes sparkle with renewed vibrancy as the city adorns itself in intricate rangoli patterns, created with rice flour, flower petals, and coloured powders.
Deepavali in Jaffna is not just a visual spectacle; it’s a feast for the taste buds. Traditional treats like milk toffee, arisi thengai payasam, and murukku become tokens of goodwill and love exchanged among families and neighbours. The culinary journey extends beyond households to captivate the diverse population of Jaffna, where Tamil, Hindu, Christian, and Muslim communities coexist harmoniously.
Jaffna boasts several magnificent Hindu temples or kovils that play a central role in Deepavali celebrations. The Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil, dedicated to Lord Murugan, stands as an iconic symbol of devotion. Even in the aftermath of Deepavali, which we continued to regret having missed, these sacred spaces still resonated with a unique spiritual energy, lingering from the prayers and rituals performed during the festival.
While Nallur Festival holds its significance, locals emphasise the enchanting spectacle of Deepavali night in Jaffna. As the sun sets, the city undergoes a transformation into a luminous wonderland. Countless lamps illuminate homes and temples, creating a captivating cityscape that encapsulates the essence of the festival.
Some women who had returned to the Kandaswamy Kovil to look for some items they had left behind during the festivities from the day before shared that as young people, while they weren’t particularly aware of the history of these celebrations, they certainly looked forward to the ‘perks’ that come with it.
They said that the exchange of gifts was a cherished tradition that followed Deepavali night in Jaffna, with families and friends usually exchanging presents as symbols of love and goodwill. They added that it was a means of fostering stronger bonds within the community and was a heartwarming gesture that transcended generations.
Experiencing Jaffna right after Deepavali offered a nuanced glimpse into the city’s cultural tapestry. The aftermath, though quieter, resonated with the warmth and unity forged during the festival. Jaffna, with its unique blend of tradition, diverse celebrations, and post-festival tranquillity, stands as a testament to the enduring spirit of Deepavali, which serves as a point of cultural expression and preservation in the north.