• Exploring the Pekoe Trail with Michelle Pinkowski and Ayesh Buddhika

After several years of struggle, 2024 proved to be something of a revival for Sri Lanka’s tourism sector, with significant growth in both tourist arrivals and revenue following a challenging period marked by economic turmoil and global disruptions.

Sri Lanka, of course, offers much to visitors – from its rich cultural heritage to its stunning landscapes and biodiversity to incredible life experiences. Earlier this year, it also quietly began offering an experience that blends all this into one – the Pekoe Trail.

The Pekoe Trail is a remarkable 300 km hiking route that showcases the country’s stunning hill country and tea plantations. Officially launched in March, this trail was designed to promote sustainable tourism while providing a unique way for visitors to experience the rich biodiversity and cultural heritage of Sri Lanka. 

The trail spans 22 sections, each averaging around 12 km. It connects notable locations such as Kandy, Hatton, Haputale, Ella, and Nuwara Eliya, often referred to as ‘Little England’ due to its colonial architecture and cool climate.

The Pekoe Trail derives its name from ‘pekoe,’ a term associated with high-quality black tea that is predominantly grown in Sri Lanka. This connection to tea is significant as the trail meanders through lush plantations where visitors can witness local tea pickers at work and explore tea factories. 

The brainchild of Miguel Cuñat, a sustainable tourism advocate, the trail was developed over several years with support from the European Union and the United States Agency for International Development (USAID). It aims to empower local communities and provide an immersive experience that highlights the island’s natural beauty and cultural richness.

Widely recognised as one of the world’s premier hiking trails, the Pekoe Trail has earned accolades from National Geographic Traveler, Condé Nast Traveler, and the British Guild of Travel Writers. Its unique combination of breathtaking landscapes, cultural immersion, and adventure tourism potential makes it a cornerstone of Sri Lanka’s tourism strategy.

Hiking the Pekoe Trail offers breathtaking views of rolling hills and diverse ecosystems, allowing for intimate encounters with local traditions and lifestyles. As hikers traverse this scenic route, they can engage with rural communities, sample local cuisine, and participate in cultural events.

By linking the trail to the broader tourism landscape, Sri Lanka can better cater to adventure seekers and eco-conscious travellers, ensuring that its tourism industry remains vibrant and resilient in the years to come.

Earlier this month, two hikers, Michelle Pinkowski and Ayesh Buddhika, took on the task of hiking the entire Pekoe Trail from start to finish over 10 days. Following their hike, The Sunday Morning Brunch sat down with Michelle and Ayesh for a chat on what the Pekoe Trail is like. 

A unique adventure

For Michelle, who has spent five years in Sri Lanka as the Project Director of the USAID Indo-Pacific Opportunity Project, the Pekoe Trail was more than just a hike – it was a deeply personal and meaningful experience. 

“One reason I wanted to do it end to end was because I thought it would tell a very unique story, which it did. it was really transformative for me; I have hiked all over the world and the Pekoe Trail was a true experience that helped me grow as a person,” Michelle shared. 

She explained that the Pekoe Trail provided a chance to immerse herself in Sri Lanka’s landscapes and connect with its communities in a way few other experiences allowed.  

For Ayesh, a licensed guide and an advocate for sustainable tourism, the journey represented a deeper mission. “The Pekoe Trail is not just a hiking trail, it’s a pathway for sustainable tourism, for connecting with local communities and uplifting their lives in the process,” he said, emphasising the trail’s potential to bridge cultures, uplift communities, and foster a relationship with nature.

Having already completed the trail three times (but not in one stretch and not in such a short time frame), Ayesh brought a wealth of experience and insight, making him an indispensable companion for Michelle during the trek.

In fact, this particular hike was something of a personal goal for Ayesh; the Pekoe Trail has previously been hiked in its entirety by famed Lankan mountaineer and hiker Johann Peries who scaled Mount Everest. Peries had completed the trek in 13 days and Ayesh had wanted to try and best that record by setting a goal of 10 days.

During their journey, Ayesh and Michelle interacted with local residents in meaningful ways. From purchasing supplies in small village shops to dining at family-owned restaurants, their expedition demonstrated the trail’s potential to generate sustainable income. They were able to speak with a number of people along the way to raise awareness of the trail and discuss economic opportunities. 

Hikers and communities can support each other in intangible ways as well. On one particularly difficult day, when the pair needed additional resilience to power them on their hike, a little girl ran out spontaneously to give them roses. Not only was this a touching symbol of the community’s warmth and hospitality, but it was also a much-needed energy boost for a steep hill climb and the journey to come. 

The hike emphasised how the Pekoe Trail can serve as a model for sustainable tourism, empowering local businesses, fostering cultural exchange, and protecting the environment. Proceeds and donations to The Pekoe Trail Organisation (TPTO) help fund trail maintenance, enhance safety, and promote the trail as a world-class tourism destination. 

Michelle and Ayesh’s hike was made possible through the collaboration of multiple partners, including Aitken Spence Travels, which served as exclusive logistical partner and accommodation partners, Theva Residency, Floating Mountain Villa by Secrets of Ceylon, Royal Majesty Bungalow, Iona Bungalow by Lalan Leisure, Idal Villa by Secrets of Ceylon, Nine Skies by Teardrop Hotels, the 6th Milepost, Heritance Tea Factory, and Ferncliff by Secrets of Ceylon. 

“Our main objective for this 10-day hike was to broadcast the Pekoe Trail, to show that we believe in sustainable tourism that can uplift local communities,” Ayesh said. 

“Many might think that I have done this because it is my job to do so since I am a guide, but this was completely voluntary. We didn’t expect anyone to help us financially. Michelle came down from the US as well to help this goal of showing the sustainability and community concepts of the Pekoe Trail, to spread the word and make it the next best thing for Sri Lanka.” 

Connecting with Sri Lanka’s soul

While the Pekoe Trail boasts incredible views and experiences with local communities, it should be noted that it does also have its challenges, and Brunch asked Michelle and Ayesh what they found most challenging. 

The primary challenges are physical and environmental; rain-soaked paths, unpredictable tropical weather, and encounters with wildlife are all things to expect when hiking the Pekoe Trail. 

The Pekoe Trail crosses multiple leopard corridors, and while leopards are elusive and very rarely aggressive towards humans, it is important to exercise caution. Other wildlife that can pose a threat include wild boar (which are usually quite aggressive) and snakes. 

Physically too it can be a challenge, although not as challenging as some of the other hiking trails of the world. “It was hard, but it was great,” Michelle said. “We discovered a lot about ourselves, not just physical toughness but mental toughness. 

“We walked through everything. From pristine tea gardens and eucalyptus forests to dense primary rainforests and mist-laden cloud forests, the trail offered surprises at every turn. We saw lots of different biodiversity and met a lot of people. We ate in local restaurants every day and relied on locals for food. I even tried a dolphin kottu for the first time!” 

Ayesh emphasised the importance of preparation: “This trail is not for the faint-hearted. The uneven terrain, combined with climate variations, can be overwhelming. But with the right mindset and preparation, it’s an unforgettable journey.”

The trail, carved through Sri Lanka’s central highlands, offers more than stunning views. It is a living tapestry of the island’s tea heritage, cultural richness, and natural beauty. Hikers interact with local communities, witness traditional lifestyles, and experience the island’s famed hospitality firsthand.

For Michelle, these interactions were particularly moving. “Every village we passed through had its own story, its own charm. The warmth of the people and their connection to the land added a layer of depth to the experience that no guidebook can capture.”

Ayesh echoed this sentiment, adding: “The Pekoe Trail is not just a physical journey; it’s a cultural and spiritual one. It connects hikers to Sri Lanka’s history, its people, and its incredible biodiversity.” 

The trail’s ability to seamlessly integrate nature and culture sets it apart. Ayesh noted: “This is a journey through Sri Lanka’s heart. Every step reveals something new, whether it’s a breathtaking view, a local tradition, or an unexpected encounter with wildlife.”

Michelle, a seasoned hiker with experience on trails around the world, described what made the Pekoe Trail unique. 

“What I found special is that there’s so much diversity of environment, flora and fauna, of sounds and smells and feeling – from humidity to cold, to different communities and religions – you see it all and you can just be in the present and focus on the present. You’re not thinking about the past or your checklist for tomorrow. You’re just present, which is an incredibly special thing. 

“I come from Colorado, which has some of the best hiking in the world and I love hiking there, but there is just so much more to the Pekoe Trail because of the other sensory experiences that come with it, beyond just the physical challenge of the hike.”

For Michelle, the trail’s potential lies in its ability to attract a global audience while benefiting local communities. “Sustainable tourism is the future and the Pekoe Trail is a shining example of how it can be done right. By involving local communities and preserving the environment, the trail ensures that its impact is positive and lasting.”

Both Michelle and Ayesh had practical advice for those looking to embark on this adventure. Michelle stressed the importance of preparation: “Be ready for tropical weather – heat, rain, and everything in between. Stay open to the experience; the trail has a way of surprising you.”

Ayesh highlighted the importance of safety and guided experiences in realising the trail’s potential. “Hiring a licensed guide not only ensures safety but also enriches the experience. Guides bring the trail to life with their knowledge of its history, culture, and biodiversity.”

He encouraged beginners to start small. “You don’t have to hike all 22 stages at once. Choose a stage that matches your fitness level and build from there. The trail is demanding but immensely rewarding.”