• Exploring Sri Lanka’s shipwrecks and caves with Dharshana Jayawardena 

Sri Lanka’s waters are a treasure trove of maritime history, dotted with centuries-old and modern shipwrecks, each with its own tale of adventure, loss, and sometimes mystery. Some of these wrecks have become artificial reefs and hubs of marine life. Diving into Lankan waters is not just a chance to see secrets of Sri Lanka’s maritime heritage but also an opportunity to embark on an adventure. 

That said, Sri Lanka arguably boasts only one diver experienced enough to traverse these wrecks – Dharshana Jayawardena. An avid diver and Sri Lanka’s only qualified cave diver, Dharshana has qualified in over 20 different diving programmes that cover all types of diving, from recreational open-water diving to specialist technical forms of diving like compression diving. 

Diving is something of a discipline for Dharshana (as it should be, for it is very easy for things to go wrong when diving, and the slightest issue can be a matter of life and death). 

The Sunday Morning Brunch sat down with Dharshana for a chat on technical diving, the unpredictable nature of diving in enclosed spaces, and the awe-inspiring beauty of Sri Lanka’s caves and shipwrecks.

The allure of technical diving

Sri Lanka boasts one of the largest collections of shipwrecks in Asia, with records indicating over 200 wrecks off its coasts, although only about 110 have been documented. According to Dharshana, these wrecks span depths from just below the surface down to 50 or 60 metres. 

Shipwreck diving appeals not only to those interested in marine life but also to history enthusiasts who want to explore the relics of the past. However, diving into these sites is not to be taken lightly. 

“Most divers who come to Sri Lanka fall into two categories: open water-certified, who can dive up to 18 metres and advanced open water divers, who can go as deep as 30 metres. However, this level of certification only allows divers to explore the external parts of wrecks. Going inside them is something entirely different and it’s incredibly dangerous for the untrained,” Dharshana explained. 

Entering these confined spaces underwater is an example of technical diving – a specialised type of diving requiring specific skills and equipment. Wreck diving at deeper levels, as well as venturing inside sunken ships, requires an additional layer of expertise and gear due to the potential hazards. 

“When you enter a wreck, there’s an overhead obstruction, so you can’t just ascend to the surface if there’s an emergency. This makes it a technical dive,” Dharshana noted.

The dangerous world of cave diving

Dharshana’s path to cave diving wasn’t a planned one. His initial interest lay in exploring shipwrecks to uncover their histories, an area he described as “investigative diving”. 

“I wanted to get into wreck diving to uncover the story behind each shipwreck – where it came from and how it ended up there. It’s fascinating work, measuring the width of the ship, identifying the engines, boilers, or masts, and then matching it to historical records,” he explained. However, a near-fatal incident changed his trajectory.

While diving inside a shipwreck at a depth of 30 metres, Dharshana found himself trapped – a potentially fatal situation that left him shaken but determined. “I realised that without the right training and equipment, I could have died that day. That was the motivation I needed to get into cave diving,” he recalled. 

He trained in southern Thailand, where he learnt cave diving techniques from the region’s renowned instructors. The experience, he said, was unlike any other: “Cave diving is trekking through muddy jungles, carrying tanks, and descending into dark spaces where you have no idea what’s in the water. It’s addictive.”

Upon his return to Sri Lanka, Dharshana was inspired to seek out local cave diving opportunities, which led him to the discovery of Nil Diya Pokuna.

Cave diving in the Lankan context

With Dharshana being Sri Lanka’s only qualified cave diver, Brunch investigated what cave diving was like in the Lankan context. Unlike open water or even basic wreck diving, cave diving takes place in underwater cave systems with little to no direct access to the surface. This closed environment introduces unique risks, including disorientation, restricted visibility, and potential collapses. 

“Cave diving is considered one of the most dangerous forms of technical diving,” Dharshana explained. “There’s a high incidence of things going wrong – losing your way, visibility dropping to zero when silt is stirred up, or even cave collapses.”

Becoming a certified cave diver is a rigorous process, requiring specialised training, equipment, and a cool head under pressure. Cave divers must learn to navigate without relying on natural light and to work with streamlined gear to avoid entanglement in narrow, confined spaces. Equipment configurations are carefully planned for safety, often including redundant air supplies and navigation lines that help divers trace their way back. 

“One-third of your air is for entering, one-third for exiting, and the last third is reserved for emergencies,” Dharshana emphasised, a vital rule for those venturing into these extreme environments.

In Sri Lanka, cave diving opportunities are limited due to the country’s geological makeup, which lacks the extensive limestone formations found in other regions. However, there are a few notable sites, including the well-known Nil Diya Pokuna – which experts believe to be a collapsed cave system formed after the last ice age. 

Located in the Karandagolla area in the Uva Province, reaching Nil Diya Pokuna is an adventure in itself. Dharshana described the gruelling journey to this cave system (which is in the region of Ella): “It’s about a half-hour drive up the mountain, then another half-hour trek through the jungle to reach a hole in the side of the mountain. From there, it’s an 80-metre descent down a pitch-black slope at a 45-degree angle. My dive only starts once I reach the bottom.”

The dive within Nil Diya Pokuna requires Dharshana to use multiple tanks, carried with the help of local villagers, and a painstaking descent using ropes and ladders. Once inside, divers encounter a massive central chamber that narrows down to a tube descending deeper underwater. Dharshana’s exploration of Nil Diya Pokuna was historic, as he became the first diver to document and map the cave’s underwater passages.

Becoming a cave diver

Technical diving requires not only physical endurance but also a mental fortitude that can handle the claustrophobic and unpredictable conditions of underwater caves and wrecks. Key to this discipline is strict adherence to planning, as Dharshana illustrated in his approach to dive preparation. 

“In a cave, everything has to be streamlined – your equipment, gear, and configuration. Nothing can stick out because it could get tangled. You carry redundant air supplies, plan your air usage, and install a line that acts as your lifeline,” he explained. Such precision is not only about safety but also about ensuring that every dive can be completed with minimal environmental disturbance.

One essential skill for technical divers is the ability to handle unexpected situations calmly. With little room for error, the stakes are high, and divers must make swift yet calculated decisions. Even with all precautions in place, diving conditions can change without warning.

For those intrigued by the allure of diving, Dharshana advised taking a gradual and disciplined approach. The journey should begin with basic open water certification, advancing to rescue diver certification, and eventually, technical diving courses covering mixed gases, decompression diving, and rebreather use. 

“Don’t rush into it. Get lots of diving experience first. Once you feel comfortable and ready, then move on to cave diving,” he suggested.

Despite its challenges, technical diving in Sri Lanka offers a rare and rewarding path, connecting divers to the island’s rich maritime past and the mysteries of its underwater landscapes. 

Dharshana’s explorations also bring a sense of pride in Sri Lanka’s unique offerings for divers. While neighbouring countries like Thailand, Indonesia, and the Maldives have their own rich underwater landscapes, Sri Lanka stands out with its maritime history and shipwreck sites. 

“Colombo is one of the best places to dive. We have a wealth of shipwrecks that other countries don’t, making us unique in Asia,” Dharshana said.

For Dharshana, the draw of diving lies in more than just technical mastery or exploration – it’s a feeling of peace, exhilaration, and connection with the unknown. 

“There’s an adrenaline rush, especially if it’s an unknown shipwreck and it’s deep. But once you’re down there, in that beautiful environment, there’s a calm, a sense of peace that’s addictive. It makes you feel energised and alive,” he shared.