‘Dakune lake aganagare Gālu pure siri
kesē kiyamdo Gālu sirī balam do’
This song and the resonant voice of Chithra Somapala echoed in my ears during childhood, marking my first reference and memories of Galle city that I can recall. Later, when I was in the fifth grade, I was taken on a trip to Kataragama with my father and mother, travelling in an iconic black Morris Oxford taxi. As we passed a colossal black stone wall, I was told: “There, look, that is Galle Fort.”
However, it wasn’t until I had spent nearly 27 years in the land of the kangaroos that I landed an opportunity to visit this great historic site that is the Galle Fort. This was when I visited my husband’s relatives in their hometown. It was March 2007 when I finally embarked on a journey back to Galle, the city that had left an indelible mark on my memory. This piece is a result of a desire which kindled that day to explore the historical and enchanting Galle Fort that captivated my imagination.
The historical narrative
Before delving into the fascinating tales and mystical structures within Galle Fort, it is essential to revisit the historical narrative that opened the doors of Galle to the world. The world now witnesses live footage of the Galle Fort as cricket matches, particularly the one-day matches between Australia and Sri Lanka, are played at the cricket stadium nestled beside the Galle Fort.
While Ven. Mahanama Thera, the author of the ‘Mahavamsa,’ traces the lineage of the Sinhalese genealogy through a popular mythical story highly debated by scholars, the erudite insights of Professor Senarath Paranavithana interlace the mythic tales with the historical context of Aryan-speaking people migrating to Sri Lanka circa the 5th century BC. This migratory episode, echoing the Vijayagamana saga chronicled in the ‘Mahavamsa,’ precipitated the establishment of an agrarian economy with Anuradhapura as its focal point in the north central region.
In an era marked by relentless invasions from South India and the destructive onslaught led by Kalinga Magha in the 13th century, the once-sturdy civilisation, rooted in time immortal, faced a dire political and agricultural crisis. The weakened state of affairs prompted rulers to seek refuge in the southwest, a region deemed safer and more fertile.
Amidst this upheaval, a beacon of opportunity arose in the form of a burgeoning demand in Europe for coveted spices like cinnamon and pepper, flourishing abundantly in the region’s humid climate. The desperate need for economic revival led Sri Lanka to embrace a paradigm shift – a transition into a novel ‘commercial economy’.
The prevailing social context in Europe at that time greatly fashioned the globalisation of the commercial economy. In the 16th and 17th centuries, a Renaissance era of intellectual awakening swept across European nations, driven by advancements in astronomy and geology. This surge in human thinking not only stimulated a spirit of exploration but also leveraged the technological knowledge and innovations of the parallel Industrial Revolution, propelling maritime journeys to new heights.
One notable outcome of this era was the historic achievement of Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias, who, in 1487, successfully reached the southern tip of Africa – an unprecedented feat that marked a pivotal moment in the age of exploration. There is an intriguing notion that this was named the ‘Cape of Good Hope’ considering this to be an auspicious sign for the journey to India.
This sentiment gained significance when Portuguese explorer Vasco da Gama embarked on his historic journey to India in 1498, heralding the dawn of the ‘Oriental Maritime Spice Route’. Opting for a maritime route across the Arabian Sea and navigating the Gobi Desert, this route presented a more accessible path compared to the treacherous journey through the traditional Silk Road leading to the East. However, the voyage faced unexpected challenges, with a Portuguese vessel under Lorenzo de Almeida encountering a storm and eventually finding refuge in the Port of Galle in 1505.
The fortuitous arrival of the Portuguese marked a transformative chapter in the history of Sri Lanka. Following this event, the island’s social fabric, enriched by Indian culture and Yonaka traders, embarked on a trajectory of assimilation with diverse European influences. Embraced by the Rumassala mountain, echoing the tales of the Ravana era, cradled by the gentle waters of Gin Ganga, and fanned by the refreshing breezes of the southern sea, Galle City, the eminent capital of the southern realm, flourished into a city of extraordinary beauty.
A trading city
While Galle City may not be prominently featured in Sri Lanka’s early history, poetic literature found in works like the ‘Mayura Sandeshaya’ and ‘Paravi Sandeshaya’ heaped praise on the city. However, Galle City is now synonymous as a trading city anchored around the Galle Harbour.
Records from 1276-1291 include references to Galle in the accounts of Moroccan traveller Ibn Battuta and Venetian explorer Marco Polo, while the ancient world map of Ptolemy records Galle’s significance as a bustling port frequented by Arab and Chinese traders. The decorated bullock carts, also known as ‘bara bage,’ beautifully laden with crops such as cinnamon and pepper that flourished in the southwest, reached this popular harbour of the south – Galle.
Traders, after enduring a long and arduous journey, found respite in the wagon shed near the harbour to ease their fatigue, hunger, and thirst. Over time, according to legend, the ‘Cart Galla’ evolved into the commonly-known name, what we recognise today as ‘Galla’. Thus, Galle stands as a testament to the confluence of cultures, a historical intersection shaped by maritime routes and diverse influences.
The beginning of a new chapter
In 1505, the Portuguese, initially drawn to the Port of Galle for trade, harboured ambitions beyond mere commercial endeavours. Discontented with authority only over trade, their vision extended to transforming Galle into a colony of their global empire, with the added goal of establishing Christianity in Ceylon as fervent believers of the faith.
In 1588, the Portuguese built a fort surrounded by a wall with attics and sentinels to protect the area around Galle from the attacks of the Sinhalese Empire in Kotte. This marked the beginning of a new chapter in Sri Lankan history. Galle Fort, a blend of European architecture and local traditions, was crafted using indigenous materials like clay and kabok. It stands as a testament to a bygone era, characterised by secret tunnels leading from the port into the country, storage rooms housing precious spices, and detention centres for Sinhalese prisoners captured during tumultuous times.
Adjacent to Galle Fort lies the segment erected by the Portuguese, now referred to as the ‘Black Fort’. The nomenclature is believed to have originated from the walls being blackened by the smoke emitted from cannons and the blacksmiths’ activities within the fort.
In 1649, the Dutch successfully wrested control of Galle Fort from the Portuguese after an arduous battle. With meticulous attention, they embarked on a comprehensive renovation project, fortifying the walls with black stone, extending their reach over a broader expanse, and giving rise to a new city inside the fort – a testament to Dutch engineering prowess. The newly-formed fortress became a cityscape reshaped by Dutch influence, with some structures within the fort still owned by the Burghers, descendants of the Dutch.
During the British colonial era, the structures within the Galle Fort served as a strategic hub for governing the southern region. Nestled within the historic embrace of Galle Fort, a tapestry of churches, monuments, and edifices stands as poignant remnants, echoing the bygone Dutch era. ‘Groote Kerk’ – the Dutch Protestant Church constructed in 1775 – is one of the oldest Protestant churches in Sri Lanka, which bears witness to the Dutch regime.
A city of diverse cultures
During my visit to this church, I was captivated by the grandeur of the Dutch governance structure that prevailed. A customary practice of that time was the internment of Dutch clergy and esteemed figures within the church premises. The narrative of their lives, inscribed in Dutch, remains legible to this day on square granite slabs adorning their final resting place. Noteworthy features inside the church include an organ dating back to 1760, intricately-crafted wooden altars, and the stained glass windows of the British-era. Adjacent to the church stands the Dutch belfry tower, further enhancing its historical significance.
The Dutch did not forget to add colour to the city of Galle with an array of designs of their country. The cobblestone streets, reminiscent of old European streets, were crafted by connecting various types of stone mortar – a charming feature still found in some European cities. As you enter the Galle Fort, this narrow road system unfolds, lined with houses and shops featuring central courtyard porches that harken back to the architecture of old Dutch houses and shops.
Galle has long been a city of diverse cultures. Under Dutch rule, the city retained its multicultural essence, reflected in street names like Pedlar Street, favoured by Arab traders, and Parawa Street, named after South Indian fishing traders. Interestingly, descendants of the Parawa community continue to engage in dry fish trade in certain areas to this day. Leyn Baan Street paid homage to local coir and rope manufacturers. This era in Galle was marked by a remarkable harmony and cooperative spirit among its inhabitants.
The Meeran Jumma Mosque, situated in close proximity to the Dutch Reformed Church, stands as a significant monument within Galle’s diverse religious landscape. Despite the British rulers conceding control to the Muslim community in 1905, this mosque represented an architectural fusion of both Eastern and Western cultures. Adorned with doors and windows featuring coloured glass treated with white paint, this structure seamlessly blends Victorian and Islamic architectural elements, resembling a Christian cathedral.
Adding to the rich tapestry is the traditional Buddhist temple Sudharmalaya, constructed in 1889. With a unique blend of European and Sri Lankan styles, it contributes to Galle’s distinctive multi-religious milieu. The Galle Clock Tower – the oldest clock tower in Sri Lanka – stands tall since its completion in 1885, being built with donations from the British Government and local ethnic communities, a testament to their enduring collaboration. Erected in memory of Dr. P.D. Anthonisz, a distinguished medical specialist who rendered invaluable service to the southern region, this iconic structure continues to cast its luminous glow over Galle City.
The imposing white Galle Lighthouse, a British marvel dating back to 1848, greets seafarers from the distant sea as they approach Galle City. Despite being ravaged by fire in 1938, it has been meticulously restored. Nestled within the historic Galle Fort is Sri Lanka’s oldest library, established during British rule in 1832, now serving as a national repository of knowledge. The expansive edifice, recognised as the Old Dutch Hospital, has undergone a transformation into a vibrant shopping complex with restaurants, offering a delightful experience for modern-day visitors to Galle City.
Galle contains hidden mysteries revealed by several museums, including the Maritime Museum housed in the Dutch warehouse. The museums now showcase a plethora of artefacts, including maps from the Dutch era, luggage utilised for oceanic voyages, and maritime vessels, unveiling the maritime history of the region. Another museum is the Historical Mansion, a former Dutch residence converted into a museum. This consists of a central courtyard and a well (later known as Bolokka Wells) attributed to the Dutch era as well as coins adorned with the logo of the Dutch East India Company – VOC.
The Government-owned National Museum meticulously displays the products of numerous popular cottage industries in Galle from that historical era. The Galle Fort, initiated by the Portuguese and enhanced by the Dutch, stands today as the largest European-built fort in South Asia. It has transformed into a living walled city, adorned with historical buildings and monuments that narrate Sri Lanka’s colonial history, earning UNESCO recognition as a World Heritage site in 1988.
Artistic and cultural heritage
Influenced by longstanding European rule, the people of Galle experienced significant shifts in their lifestyles. While adopting aspects of Portuguese clothing and fashion nomenclature, they remained deeply connected to their own culture and history.
This cultural amalgamation is perhaps best expressed in Chithra Somapala’s song ‘Athdiga Hatte Andagath Galu Ladunne’. The traditional blouse transformed into the long-sleeved blouse, known as the ‘kaba kuruththuwa,’ is a word coined from Portuguese origins. Embellished with beeralu lace crafted using the beeralu pillow, a technique imparted by the Portuguese, this style of weaving of intricate lace, known as ‘renda,’ swiftly gained popularity as a cherished home industry among the women of Galle.
Despite adopting names like Silva and Fernando through interaction with the Portuguese and giving birth to an ethnic entity identified as Burghers during the Dutch era, the people of Galle retained their local culture and history. ‘Pana kapanno’ and ‘karuvala katam karuvo’ reflect their efforts to preserve local culture while assimilating foreign influences.
Galle’s artistic heritage extends to nearby areas, such as Ambalangoda, renowned for local arts such as mask carving, puppetry, and kolam. A vibrant drama tradition, Nadagam, incorporating local drums like maddala, emerged in coastal regions like Balapitiya, blending with Christianity.
Galle also nurtured notable influential religious scholars, including the likes of Sri Rahula Thera of Thotagamuwa, Gunananda Thera of Mohottiavatte, Sri Sumangala Thera of Hikkaduwa, and Sri Soratha Thera of Weliwita.
When you talk of Galle, you are reminded of three illustrious sons of Sri Lanka who emerged from its enchanting surroundings and extended their influence globally. Martin Wickramasinghe, revered as the great sage of Koggala, Professor Senarath Paranavithana, renowned for his expertise in inscriptions and antiquities of Ceylon, and Professor Ediriweera Sarachchandra, a luminary in Sinhala literature and drama, are indelibly etched in the cultural legacy of the region.
In essence, Galle stands as a living testament to Sri Lanka’s cultural heritage, woven intricately with threads of resilience, diversity, and timeless elegance. The Martin Wickramasinghe Folk Museum in Koggala offers a unique glimpse into the lives of the people of Galle. Here, memories are preserved, revealing the essence of Galle’s vibrant cultural heritage.
The roots of literary giants like Martin Wickramasinghe and Senarath Paranavithana can be traced back to the Buona Vista College in Rumassala, Galle, adding another layer of significance to this historical connection. Meanwhile, Professor Sarachchandra, born in the coastal village of Dodanduwa, located 13 km towards Colombo, spent his formative years in Galle, receiving his primary education at Richmond College.
While the Portuguese introduced delectable items such as ‘achcharu’ (pickle) the aroma of ‘malu ambul thiyal’ (sour fish curry) emanating from the kitchens of Galle triumphs over all other culinary delights.
Amidst the allure of Galle’s gastronomic offerings, the melodious words of Chithra Somapala echo, affirming the city’s timeless charm – ‘Kese Kiamdo Gallu Siri Vanamdo’.
(This article was originally written in Sinhala and translated into English by Lalinda Wickremeratne)