Korean culture is fast dominating the mainstream, with its skincare, media, and food permeating cultures worldwide since the rise of the Korean Wave (Hallyu) in the 1990s. To a large extent, South Korea has managed to win multiple culture wars with its numerous exports, one of its most notable being Korean food culture. 

One staple Korean dish that is impossible to ignore is kimchi. If you are a fan of K-dramas, you have likely come across this fermented delicacy. Even those mildly curious about Korean culture would have come across kimchi, especially those who are interested in Korean food, or even food in general, since there are many restaurants in Colombo that use kimchi in some of their recipes. 

A recent trend sees many (mainly younger) Sri Lankans making kimchi at home using locally available ingredients, which is both inspiring and innovative, prompting The Sunday Morning Brunch to explore kimchi further. 

What is kimchi? 

Historically, kimchi was born from the intention of Korean people to eat vegetables safely and deliciously during the cold and harsh winter. When the first Koreans started engaging in agriculture, they faced significant challenges due to extremely cold winters. Preserving food for the winter became crucial and the most popular method of preservation was using salt on different kinds of foods.

There are now many types of kimchi. Since roughly 200 years ago, there have been around 100 different types of kimchi. Today, over 200 types of kimchi are available in the market. This vast variety has made kimchi one of the most popular side dishes internationally, as there is a type of kimchi for every occasion.

Some of the different types of kimchi include kkakdugi (cubed radish kimchi), mul kimchi (water kimchi), and chonggak kimchi (ponytail radish kimchi). These different types of kimchi are also used in popular Korean dishes such as kimchi fried rice, spicy pork stir-fry, kimchi pancakes, and kimchi stew.

Kimchi, particularly the popular baechu kimchi (napa cabbage), is made through lacto-fermentation, a process similar to making any type of fermented pickle.

1. Stage 1: Napa cabbage is soaked in a salty brine that kills harmful bacteria
2. Stage 2: The remaining beneficial bacteria (Lactobacillus) convert sugars into lactic acid, preserving the vegetables and giving them their characteristic tangy flavour

However, kimchi recipes can vary, with some including carrots while others prefer to keep it traditional. Ji Sung-bin, a Korean expatriate living in Sri Lanka, shared his personal experience making kimchi in Sri Lanka.

“We make kimchi at home using all the traditional ingredients, but sometimes we substitute Sri Lankan spices. It still tastes amazing,” he said.

“My mother-in-law makes a vegetarian version of kimchi, leaving out fish sauce and shrimp paste. Instead, I use kelp powder for the umami flavour,” he said.

However, there are a few things to keep in mind: “Too much garlic can make kimchi bitter and too much ginger can make it sticky. As for gochugaru, adjust the amount to your liking. Kimchi can be mild or fiery – it’s your choice.”

Looking to make kimchi? 

Here is something of a guide for a basic kimchi recipe. It’s not exhaustive by any means, but it can be a good start. 

Ingredients

• Napa cabbage (though many Sri Lankans have successfully substituted local cabbage)
• Salt
• Garlic
• Ginger
• Sugar
• Fish sauce or shrimp paste
• Gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)
• Scallions

Method

• Salt the cabbage: Cut the cabbage into quarters, remove the core, and sprinkle salt between the leaves. Let it sit for two hours
• Make the paste: Mix garlic, ginger, sugar, fish sauce (or shrimp paste), and gochugaru in a bowl to create a spicy paste
• Rinse the cabbage: Rinse the salted cabbage thoroughly to remove excess salt and drain well
• Mix everything: Combine the cabbage, scallions, and paste in a bowl. Use gloves to coat the cabbage evenly
• Pack and ferment: Pack the mixture into a jar, press it down to remove air bubbles, and let it ferment at room temperature for 1-3 days
• Refrigerate and enjoy: Once it tastes how you like, store it in the fridge and enjoy as a side dish or in recipes

Giving it a local twist

Given that some traditional Korean ingredients are difficult to find in Sri Lanka, many have started making kimchi with locally available items.

Sung-bin highlighted an interesting adaptation: “I started substituting gochugaru with regular Sri Lankan chilli flakes and chilli powder. The taste is different, but I still enjoy it all the same.”

Another substitution he shared was using local cabbage instead of napa cabbage. “For the longest time, I didn’t use regular cabbage, and I only made spring onion kimchi or radish kimchi because the cabbage didn’t feel ‘right.’ But really, it’s just cabbage – it works well enough,” he shared.

If you are looking to try your hand at making kimchi in Sri Lanka, here are some useful tips:

1. If you don’t have napa cabbage, use local cabbage. It may have a slightly different texture, but it ferments just as well
2. Substitute gochugaru with Sri Lankan chilli flakes and chilli powder. This brings a uniquely local twist to the dish
3. For a vegetarian version, skip the fish sauce or shrimp paste and try a splash of soy sauce or kelp powder for umami
4. Ferment your kimchi in an airtight container for at least a week before eating it to let the flavours fully develop

The growing interest in Korean cuisine among Sri Lankans is evident, with more people experimenting with making kimchi at home. It is fascinating to see how a dish so deeply rooted in Korean tradition is being embraced and adapted with Sri Lankan ingredients and flavours.

Whether you are a dedicated fan of Korean food or just curious about trying something new, making kimchi at home can be a fun and rewarding experience. With a little creativity, you can enjoy this beloved Korean staple right here in Sri Lanka.