This past weekend, The Sunday Morning Brunch embarked on a pilgrimage up the sacred mountain of Adam’s Peak, taking on the challenge of the less-travelled Ratnapura route.
Having previously climbed via the more popular Hatton trail, we wanted to explore this alternative path, known for its natural beauty and serenity. However, our journey proved to be a true test of endurance, as we faced relentless rain, slippery trails, and over 12,000 steep steps.
Although the pilgrimage season traditionally runs from December to May, we learnt from locals that certain rainy periods within this window can make the trek particularly gruelling – something we unfortunately experienced firsthand.
Despite these challenges, reaching the summit to witness the famed ‘ira sevaya’ (sunrise) made every step worthwhile, leaving us with a profound sense of accomplishment and spiritual fulfilment.
For those who have yet to visit Adam’s Peak, it is an experience deeply woven into the fabric of Sri Lankan culture. Many Sri Lankans make the pilgrimage annually or even more frequently, not only as an adventure but also as a spiritual journey of immense significance. While some are drawn to the mountain for its hiking trails and connection to nature, others climb in devotion, seeking a profound religious experience.
Many routes to the top
Adam’s Peak offers several routes to reach the summit, each catering to different levels of experience and preferences.
The Kuruwita/Erathna route is a quieter and less-travelled path, ideal for those seeking solitude and a more scenic journey. This trail merges with the Ratnapura route near the summit, combining peaceful trekking with stunning natural beauty.
The Hatton/Nallathanniya route is the most popular and beginner-friendly option. Spanning approximately 5 km, it is the easiest path to the summit, making it particularly suitable for first-time climbers or those looking for a less strenuous ascent.
The Siripagama route, stretching 9 km, offers a more immersive experience as it winds through villages and lush jungles. This trail provides trekkers with a deeper connection to the local environment and culture, making it a rewarding choice for nature enthusiasts.
Each route provides a unique way to experience the sacred journey to the summit of Adam’s Peak, allowing climbers to select the path that best suits their preferences and abilities.
Having previously taken the Siripagama route, we found its overnight camping opportunities and jungle trails to be mesmerising. However, this path is highly discouraged during the rainy season due to the risk of landslides and flooding, which can make the journey hazardous.
While climbing via the Ratnapura route this time, we had the opportunity to speak with Sajitha Athukorale, a resident of Ratnapura, who explained why many locals favoured this challenging path despite its difficulty.
“We are people of the land and we feel protected when we take this route. Even first-timers are safe – it is nothing to worry about,” she said.
Yenul Lithiru, a seasoned climber of Adam’s Peak, shared his decades-long connection with the sacred mountain. “We have been climbing this mountain for many years. I have climbed about 19 times now, and we even organise an annual dansala for climbers,” he said.
Yenul’s group follows the Palabathgala path, a lesser-known route unique to his community, showcasing the local traditions tied to this pilgrimage.
Dispelling myths about the climbing season, he offered practical advice for those planning their journey.
“While the season officially begins with the December full moon poya, I always tell people to avoid the end of December and January,” he explained. According to Yenul, February is the ideal time for a climb, with the start of March also being a viable option. “You should avoid climbing towards the end of March, but you can plan a climb again in May,” he added.
Yenul’s tips reflect both his experience and commitment to making the climb safe and meaningful for himself and others. His insights underscore the importance of timing and preparation in undertaking this spiritual journey.
Deep traditions
Climbing Adam’s Peak is steeped in deep tradition, with particular reverence given to first-time climbers. Regardless of the route chosen, first-timers are affectionately referred to as ‘kodu karaya,’ a term that signifies their maiden journey to the sacred summit.
This designation comes with a sense of respect, as attempting the climb for the first time is seen as a significant spiritual and personal milestone. Fellow travellers, even those who are strangers, often extend words of encouragement and protection to first-timers, creating a sense of community and shared purpose.
This tradition has also inspired a commercial aspect in recent years, with the selling of ‘kodu packets’ – small bundles containing a thread, needle, lime, and a coin for ‘panduru’ (offerings).
These items play a symbolic role during the journey. The thread and needle are particularly significant at the Indikatupana, a sacred point where first-timers insert their needle and string it through the threads left by countless others before them. This act is a symbolic declaration saying “I was here,” marking their connection to the mountain and the belief that the land will now offer them its protection.
Reflections on the Ratnapura route
On our journey along the Ratnapura route, it was clear that the climb was not for the faint-hearted. The path was incredibly challenging and we found ourselves taking frequent breaks to regain our strength.
Despite the difficulty, what stood out was the profound respect and camaraderie among the climbers. Everyone seemed deeply mindful of each other’s journeys, creating a supportive environment that kept us motivated.
While commercial activity was evident along the way, with numerous food stalls and small shops lining the path, the trail remained impressively clean. Signs reminding climbers not to litter were taken seriously and there was little to no plastic or garbage, reflecting the collective care for the sacred mountain.
The shops along the route offered more than just food and drinks – they became places of refuge, especially during the relentless rain we experienced. Stall owners were incredibly kind, often allowing climbers to rest even if they did not make a purchase.
Many offered warm food, hot tea, and even basic medicine to those who had been climbing for hours in the rain. Their generosity and hospitality were a testament to the spirit of the Adam’s Peak pilgrimage.
One of the most beautiful aspects of climbing Adam’s Peak is the palpable sense of community and togetherness. The shared goal of reaching the summit binds climbers together, fostering an environment where everyone wants to see others succeed.
Encouraging chants, poems, and songs echo along the trail, lifting spirits and helping climbers persevere. Locals living along the path contribute to this communal effort, offering water, walking sticks, and words of encouragement to those struggling. It is an experience that transcends the physical challenge of the climb, leaving a lasting impression of unity and mutual support.
An essential aspect of the climb is the availability of public toilets along the route. We were pleasantly surprised by how clean and well maintained these facilities were, a rarity in many public spaces.
This cleanliness is not just due to regular maintenance but also the sense of responsibility and duty adopted by climbers, who take care to leave the spaces as they find them. It reflects the collective respect for the sacred mountain and the experience of fellow climbers.
Another notable feature of the route is the presence of ‘ambalamas,’ traditional rest stops for weary travellers. These shelters are invaluable for climbers, particularly during harsh weather.
We had to take refuge in one such ‘ambalama’ as the rain intensified and nightfall approached, making it impossible to continue safely. These ‘ambalamas’ provide a moment of respite, offering protection and an opportunity to recharge before continuing the ascent. Without this rest stop, we would not have been able to reach the Uda Maluwa, the summit temple.
The Uda Maluwa, where the temple is located, is the ultimate destination for climbers. It is important to note that the gates to the Uda Maluwa close at 6 a.m., just as the sun begins to rise, and remain closed until about 6.30 a.m.
For those wishing to witness the iconic sunrise, reaching the summit before this cutoff is crucial. Missing this window means waiting on the path until the gates reopen, underscoring the importance of time management during the climb. The sunrise at Uda Maluwa is not just a visual spectacle but also a deeply spiritual moment that makes the challenging journey all the more rewarding.
A rewarding yet challenging journey
While our climb up Adam’s Peak via the Ratnapura route was gruelling, reaching the summit was a rewarding experience. Unfortunately, due to the relentless rain and heavy mist, we were unable to witness the famous sunrise. However, seasoned climbers assured us that on clear days, the sunrise was nothing short of majestic – a moment that makes the entire journey worthwhile.
After spending some time at the Uda Maluwa, waiting for the crowds to thin, we began our descent. It is worth noting that the climb down, often underestimated, requires significant energy and focus. Although it doesn’t strain the body in the same way as the ascent, it is equally demanding and should not be taken lightly.
Interestingly, we observed that some climbers opted to take one route, such as the Hatton trail, for the ascent and another, like the Ratnapura route, for the descent, making their journey even more adventurous.
In the end, despite the challenges, our pilgrimage left us with a profound sense of accomplishment and a deeper appreciation for the shared spirit of this sacred journey.
The physical strain, camaraderie with fellow climbers, and the serene beauty of Adam’s Peak combined to make it an unforgettable experience. For those willing to take on the challenge, Adam’s Peak offers not just a hike but a journey of spiritual and communal connection as well.